West on the Thames

24/7/2018


With low rainfall the Thames is a peaceful highway, traversing swathes of England in a wide lazy sweep, past boathouses, grand properties, ancient trails. The boathouses make a fascinating study, many restored with fine woodwork, immaculate paint, centuries old. Others are genteely declining, tree embraced, a thatched roof somewhat holey.

Finding a mooring can be challenging. One late afternoon we nudged the prow into a tree (photo attached), a tight spot, the steep hill rising to the north belonging to Cliveden, a National Trust property. After dinner we strolled the river side path past some of the cottages on the estate, then up the hill in fading light towards the mansion. In the woods a large deer paused, before leaping away.

Yesterday's mooring found us against a blackberry lined field, providing foraged berries for dessert, al fresco dining on the field, passers by intriguing us, a couple dressed in fine apricot cheesecloth long bloomers (him), his companion in leotards, a chic leather satchel across her shoulder. Minutes later just the girl returned, and in a brief chat said she was returning to her yoga convention.  Intrigued, our post dinner stroll took us across fields, following the drums, lilting eastern music, to a major encampment, thousands of  people, white marquees, fires, a surreal scene. I found more blackberries to garner. A strange but delightful evening.

Tonight finds Santiago's plank in service, as we nestle in reeds, the bank either a leap away, or a careful plank-walk. Jumping from boat to bank far simpler than attempting a leap back to the 4 inch gunnel. A degree of self preservation is no bad thing.

Our mooring at Goring was another small challenge, as the river bank towered above the boat.  We dined out with our visiting crew at an excellent pub in this small town, which lies at the junction of two of the long distance trails in this area, the Ridgeway running east west, and the north heading Icknield Way. For millenia a ford here allowed travellers, drovers, to cross the Thames.

Tomorrow we head further WNW, as the river climbs towards Oxford.

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